The Karnali River
Overview
This is probably the most definitive Himalayan whitewater adventure of all, which even includes a two day trek to the river start point. Set in the most remote, Least explored western region of Nepal, the Karnali is a magnificent river and this expedition is indeed unique and not for the faint-hearted.
To reach our put in point first a two day road journey through the Terai, then the two day trek from Nepal’s lowland east/west highway. From Surkhet the trail climbs over low passes past isolated villages. Then the river – 40 major in the first four days. The total whitewater, 165 kms, is the distance it takes for the river to make a huge westerly hairpin bend, finally forging a course through the Himalayan’s middle hills. The surroundings are almost sheer wilderness with the wildlife – mainly monkey’s, deer and colourful birds – creating an awe inspiring sense of genesis.
From the road head at Surkhet porters sweat all the expedition equipment, including our 80 kilo rafts, to Karelghat. Carrying just our day packs, and surrounded by the extraordinary beauty of the landscape, we trek through forests and along ridge tops before descending from Danigad to the Swat Khola, the put-in point for some of the best whitewater in the entire Himalaya. Thus some of our trekking expertise is also called upon in this great whitewater rafting expedition.
Then 6 adrenaline pumping days rafting the “ Wild Water Of The West”. The river begins with fun class II-III rapids on every corner until, before you know it, the challenge of bigger and more complex class IV rapids in the section known as “Jungle Ghat” leading us into some of the big stuff: “Human for Lunch” and “Jailhouse Rock”. River-day 2 offers more ambitious class IV-V rapids with many large holes. The river lets up just before entering the steep, high canyon where we scout “Captivity”, a class V rapid aptly named. The day culminates with “God’s House” an awe-inspiring class V hole. By river-day 3, sore arms testify to the hard work being done at the paddle - skills will be tested once more on “Flip & Strip”, “Lost Mutt”, and many more class III rapids.
River-day 4 is Red Rock Canyon (also aptly named) and there follows less turbulent but nonetheless grade III progress. By river-day 5, most of the unforgiving rapids are behind us – more time now to value the scenery and the silent sense of remoteness. By the time The Bheri River joins the Karnali from the east, the river has become a huge fast flowing tributary of the Ganges and our last day’s rafting relies as much on our paddle power as it does on the river flow. It’s with feelings of achievement that we reach our take-out point at the suspension bridge on the east/west highway at Chisapani.
Duration: 12 days
Grade: ( high - water): IV- V.
When to Visit:
Start: Kathmandu,
Finish: Kathmandu,
Itinerary
River distance: 165 kms.
Days 1 & 2
The road approach.
Day 1.
Breakfast in Kathmandu. Depart for Bhalubang/Lamahi. Lunch en-route dinner at Bhalubang or Lamahi. Overnight at simple lodging.
Day 2. Simple breakfast & depart. Lunch en-route. Turn off on to road that climbs to Surkhet. Short walk out of Surkhet and camp in forest.
Days 3 & 4
Trek in to Karnali.
Day 3.
Wake-up call, tea, coffee, breakfast. Start trek – unspoiled scenery. Lunch under huge banyan tree near the village school. Continue at a gentle pace.
Excellent campsite in a dell with a buffalo pond. Friendly, inquisitive local
people.
Day 4.
A second nice day’s trekking. Down to small remote river valley, then uphill to a brilliant panoramic view. Easy descent, then suddenly stretching below us: THE KARNALI RIVER – WOW! Arrive at small riverside village of Karleghat. Set-up camp on ideal beach.
Days 5,6,7,8,9 & 10.
Rafting the Mighty Karnali.
Day 5.
Safety talk & demo. 1st Major rapids before camp at great grey crag.
Day 6.
“Human For Lunch”, “Jailhouse Rock” etc. Wall to wall whitewater all day.
Perfect deserted beach camp.
Day 7.
“God’s House”, “Rafter’s Trap”, “Flip & Strip”, and “Last Mutt” – perhaps the most incredible day’s rafting of all.
Day 8.
Some good rapids; also a lazy beautiful drift cruising through river rock canyon.
Day 9.
Perfect forest scenery with towering cliffs and crags – recurring features of this magnificent river.
Day 10.
Morning rapids east for experts (!) then catching the current drift to journey’s end. Take-out at the Chisapani suspension bridge. Drive to Bardia National Park and lunch. Free time for park visit. Dinner.
Day 11.
Depart after breakfast, lunch en-route. Dinner at Naryangarh. Overnight at simple lodge.
Day 12.
Simple breakfast & depart for Kathmandu. Lunch en-route. Arrive Kathmandu aprox. 2.00pm.
