The Himalayan Traverse
A Wonderful Journey from Leh to Manali Trekking Across Ladakh & Zanskar
Overview
The complete traverse of Ladakh and Zanskar from the remote city of Leh southwards to Manali in the Kulu valley of Lahaul is surely one of the superb treks in the Ladakh Region called as ‘Little Tibet’ Ladakh offers a microcosm of the ancient culture and traditions of its northern neighbour.
After arriving Delhi into the Capital of India we take the exciting mountain flight from Delhi to Leh the Capital of Ladakah, at 3500metres high .After the two days of acclimatization in the Indus Valley visiting some of the gompas and ancient hill forts which abound in this region. The British East India Company arrived here as early as 1822 but one gets the feeling that life has changed very little since the age when caravans of traders travelled between India and Central Asia heading for the Silk Route.
From Leh we drive along one of the world’s highest mountain roads to Lamayuru where we begin our trek. Beyond lies the remote Kingdom of Zanskar and its ancient capital of Padum. Between them we must trek for 10 days through spectacular narrow gorges, over high passes and negotiate exciting river crossings. The stark scenery of the Ladakhi mountains is complemented by the green irrigated fields of its villages and the colourful Buddhist gompas built into the steep hillsides.
Padum is linked to the outside world by a rough road which is usually passable in the summer months, enabling us to re-supply at this halfway point in the trek. From here we walk for nine more days following the Tsarap River through the rugged Zanskar mountains. Zanskar has been called the ‘Last Place on Earth’ because of its almost total isolation from the outside world, and we will be able to experience its unique solitude. Eventually we reach Manali in the beautiful Kulu valley. This town is one of the last bastions of the Indian hippy trail of the 1960’s and a few curious remnants of that era still remain. We can enjoy some of its exotic charms before the drive back to Delhi and our homeward flight.
Duration: 19 or 29 days
Grade: 4
When to Visit: 1st July to end of September.
Start: Delhi
Finish: Delhi
Itinerary
Day 1.
Depart from the UK for our flight to Delhi. Arrive into Delhi late in the evening. Transfer to a comfortable airport hotel and can relax or perhaps sleep for a few hours.
Day 2.
Return to the airport very early in the morning for our flight to Leh which departs at 05.40 hours. Flights to Leh normally leave Delhi very early in the morning to take advantage of the best flying weather as in the afternoon the weather is often bad at Leh which can prevent flights from landing. We arrive in Leh at 06.55 and transfer by private bus to our hotel where we can enjoy a morning of rest and relaxation after the long and tiring journey. Leh is the ancient capital of Ladakh and has many imposing hilltop forts to visit, and a colourful bazaar which we can wander around at our leisure. The Royal Leh Palace makes an ideal excursion for the afternoon. Built in the 17th century, Leh Palace was occupied by the Ladakhi royal family until the 1830s before they were exiled.
Day 3.
In Leh for sight-seeing and can visit the monasteries at Shey and Thiksey. Shey gompa is situated on a small hill 15 km south of Leh and was once the residence of the royal family. It was constructed by the first king of Ladakh, Lhachen Palgyigon, and was the seat of power of the pre-Tibetan kings. The old Shey Palace has a largest golden Buddha statue in Ladakh. Thiksey gompa is located 17 km from Leh. It is a very imposing monastery and one of the finest example of Ladakhi architecture of any type. The 12 storey building contains numerous stupas, statues, thankas and wall paintings as well as a large pillar engraved with the Buddha's teachings. The main prayer hall has a 50 feet high seated Buddha figure.
Day 4.
The village of Lamayuru with its famous hilltop monastery lies about 75 miles west of Leh along the Indus valley. We drive along the spectacular mountain road which ultimately goes to Kargil. Off this valley are several places of interest such as the ancient Buddhist temples of Alchi and Blasgo, and the monasteries of Likir and Rizong. We arrive at the village of Lamayuru where our escorting team along with pony men with their animals will be waiting for us. On arrival we visit the monastery and camp for the night here.
Day 5.
The first day of the trek is a short day to begin with by trekking through Lamayuru and climbing steadily across a mountainside to Prinkitila (3750metres) from where we descend a dry narrow gorge to the village of Shila. We pass through this and continue to the village of Wanla.
Day 6.
We follow a wide level path until we reach the village of Phenjila. From here we cross a bridge and climb up a ridge until we enter a spectacular narrow gorge where the path is cut into the rocks. Although there is no difficulty, this section is tough for the mules. We continue on until we come out in the open and follow the well defined trail to the village of Hanupatta
to camp a little outside the village.
Day 7.
We begin with a long but fairly gradual ascent to the Sirsi La (4800metres) and descend steeply at first and then gradually to Photoksar (3750m) a splendid village with a small abandoned monastery.
Day 8.
We climb gradually to the top of the Bumiktse La (4200metres) which offers wonderful views of the Zanskar range. From this pass we descend gradually down to the river in a broad valley and climb a short distance to the foot of the Singi La.
Day 9.
Begin with a short ascent to the top of Singi La (5000metres) another great vantage point for the Zanskar mountains. From here we have a fairly steep descent for a while before the going gets more gradual . We continue along an undulating path to the Kiupa La (3850metres) before descending steeply to a small stream. From here we have to climb back up and over another pass, the Netuksi La (4300metres) from where it is a short descent to the river and a fairly gradual path to Lingshet. The wonderful landscape along this trail more than compensates for the frequent number of ascents and descents on the route to Lingshet. We camp in a pleasant location by the village monastery.
Day 10.
Leaving Lingshet we have a long and gradual climb in a wide valley to the top of the Hanuma La (4700metres). The final section to the crest of the pass is fairly steep but when we reach this we are rewarded with a breathtaking view of the rugged Zanskar range. We descend across pastures, mountain streams and occasional snow bridges to Snertse to camp.
Day 11.
We climb gradually on a well defined path and descend to a good bridge over the Oma Chu. From here we have another steep ascent to the top of Parfi La (3900metres). The steep descent to the river can get difficult for the animals and there is the occasional stream to cross. From the river the path eases as we reach the small settlement of Hanumil with its very pleasant camp site.
Day 12.
We follow the Zanskar river on a rough path through occasional moraines until we reach the village of Pidmu. From here the trail continues more easily until we reach Pishu. Just before this village there is the longest hanging rope bridge in Zanskar which leads to the village of Zangla where the royal family of Zangla reside. There are good camp sites below the village near the river.
Day 13.
An easy walk today but as we are at a relatively low altitude it can be very hot and dusty. We camp at the village of Karsha, below the monastery. In the afternoon we can visit the monastery complex, the largest in Zanskar. The rooftop offers great views of the valley and besides the temples which house various statues and paintings, it is very worthwhile to go to their library to see the ancient collection of prayer books.
Day 14.
A short walk of about 2 hours across the river brings us to the large settlement of Padum (3500metres). Once the capital of the ancient kingdom of Zanskar, Padum is the present day administrative headquarters of the region. Padum is the most populous settlement of Zanskar and being the mid way point in our trek is a good place to catch up with clothes washing, writing our journals or we can simply spend a leisurely afternoon browsing around the tiny market.
FROM HERE THERE ARE TWO OPTIONS ;
0PTION 1
Day 15.
Drive from Padum to Kargil. Overnight stay in hotel in Kargil.
Day 16.
Drive from Kargil to Leh. Overnight stay in hotel in Leh
Day 17.
Fly from Leh to Delhi. free time in Delhi. Overnight stay in hotel in Delhi.
Day 18.
Free time in Delhi until transfer to international airport to board your flight for onward journey.
OPTION 2
Day 15.
A metal top road has been extended from Padum to Bardan gompa, so today’s trek follows the
course of the road to reach the gompa (3600metres) built in the 17th century. The monastery is perched like a medieval fortress above the river on the mountain cliff. It has a giant prayer wheel and its Bhutanese style assembly hall has fine old Mandala paintings. We follow the undulating path to Mune, a lovely little village.
Day 16.
Today is a tough day when we follow through boulder-strewn paths and cross many small streams. The trail cuts across the canyon slope and at times can be difficult for our horses. On the opposite side of the valley we see the lovely fortified village of Ichar and continue past some small tea houses to camp at the village of Gyalpoh.
Day 17.
Leaving early in the morning we walk the short distance to Purne, our camp for the night. Whilst our trek crew put up the camp, we take a day hike to Phuktal Gompa, one of the highlights of the trek and a sight not to be missed. We follow the left back of the Tsarap river in splendid gorges and along a narrow path until we cross the bridge on the Tsarap river and come to a little plateau with prayer flags and chortens. As we go around a bend in the river we are greeted with the most spectacular sight of Phuktal Gompa set high up in a cave with a solitary willow tree on top. Back to Purne for overnight.
Day 18.
From Purne we climb up for about 3 hours to the lovely village of Teta. We pass several Mani
walls and chortens on a delightful path to the large village of Kargiakh (4000metres) to camp. High above the village is a small monastery and which is worthwhile climbing up here for the fine views across the valley and perhaps to watch the setting sun throw a spectrum of colours across the landscape.
Day 19.
We climb gently out of the village and continue through a broad valley with fantastic views of the huge rocky face of Gumburonjon looming ahead. This is a great section of the trek and very photogenic. From here we cross several streams to reach our camp at Lakong (4500metres) near the confluence of two minor streams.
Day 20.
We leave camp early for the long haul to the crest of the Shingo La ( 5090metres), the highest pass on the trek. The initial climb is fairly easy as we go up mountain pastures with lovely views of the mountains. Very soon you reach the snowline and the going gets tough as we climb steeply up to the pass. Crossing over this pass takes us into the Lahaul valley and we have a long descent on a zigzag path, initially on snow and then over a boulder field and moraines to our camp at Chuminakpo.
Day 21.
An easier day after the exertions on the Shingo La. We follow the Shingo Chu river, passing through many small meadows and descend steeply to Zanskar Sumdo (3840metres) where camp by the tea house.
Day 22.
We cross the river over a good bridge and follow a trail through rough moraines to the village of Palamo (3700metres).
Day 23.
Our final day of walking takes us to the trail head at the town of Darcha. Overnight in Darcha
Day 24.
After breakfast we drive for 6-8 hours over the Rohtang Pass to the town of Manali. We arrive in Manali and check into the hotel for a wonderful hot shower and bath. Evening a wonderful meal with beer and cocktail.
Day 25.
Situated in the hill state of Himachal Pradesh, Manali is a picture postcard mountain resort covered with pine woods and apple orchards. It is also a favourite tourist destination for middle class Indian families who come up to the mountains to see snow (something of a curiosity for most of their countrymen). We visit the one of the oldest temples of Hadimba Devi and a visit to village of Vashisht with its hot sulphur springs will complete our tour.
Day 26.
The drive to Delhi is too long to be done in one comfortable day so we break the journey at the delightful Nalagargh Fort Palace hotel located on a small hilltop which affords a panoramic view of the Shivalik Hills. The Nalagarh rises above a 20 acre estate of forest and orchard and is built on five levels, three of which have beautifully manicured lawns. The fort and the palace of Nalagarh comprise a series of structures built in the Mughal style of architecture. These have been exhaustively renovated and are now a high quality tourist resort.
Day 27.
After an early breakfast we depart from Nalagarh and conclude the drive to Delhi. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 28.
Delhi to Agra by train to visit Agra for its world famous The Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, Itmad-ud-Daulah and Fatehpur Sikri. Back to Delhi by evening train overnight in Hotel.
Day 29.
In Delhi after a leisurely breakfast start the combined sightseeing tour of Old and New Delhi visiting Qutab Minar, India Gate, Presidents House, Raj Ghat and Humayun’s Tomb. Back to the hotel for wash up and change with an evening dinner and transfer to international airport to board your flight for onward journey.