Sikkim - In the Shadow of Kanchenjunga via Utteary

Duration: 23 days

Grade: 4

Start: Delhi

Finish: Delhi

Itinerary

Day 1.
Arrive Delhi and transfer to Hotel for overnight stay.
Day 2.
After breakfast sightseeing tour by coach of Old Delhi and New Delhi- which are completely different in character to one another. We visit the Qutab Minar, a medieval, 82-meters high commemorative tower, the busy bazaars of Chandni Chowk, and the Moghul Red Fort. We will also see New Delhi’s imposing avenues and the Lutyen’s designed Government Houses. We can also visit one of Delhi’s old bazaars, where we can witness the beaming life of the Indian capital city at first hand. Overnight in hotel.
Day 3.
After breakfast transfer to domestic airport for flight to Bagdogra. The flight to Bagdogra runs parallel to the Himalayas and if the weather is clear, we have views of all the Himalayas giants; including Nanda Devi and Panch Chuli and then all of the Nepalese 8000 metre peaks; Dhaulagiri, the Annapurna’s and Manaslu, Cho Oyu, Everest, Makalu and then the massive bulk of Kanchenjunga, just as we come in to land from Bagdogra, it is a four-hour drive to Darjeeling. At first, we drive through flat rice fields and Assam tea plantations, before the road starts to climb into the foothills of the Himalaya. Darjeeling, built on top of a ridge, faces the Himalaya and is a popular tourist destination for Westerners and Bengali's alike. The thickly forested land was originally acquired by the British in 1833, who introduced tea growing and promoted the settlement as a Health Resort, 150 years ago. Darjeeling is now a thriving and busy town but retains links to its past in the form of the remarkable and gracious. We spend the night at comfortable hotel, which offers with a view of the peaks of the Sikkim Himalaya from the hotel’s terrace.
Day 4.
After breakfast we will arrange a sightseeing tour of some of the attractions around Darjeeling. We visit Ghoom Monastery, which boasts one of the highest railway stations in the world, as well as a 5 metre-high gilded statue of the Matreya, or future Buddha. We can also visit the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, which has a superb collection of memorabilia from the early days of Everest exploration. Also on the “not to be missed” list is the Tibetan Refugee Centre where one can purchase handicrafts at reasonable prices. After lunch, we can relax in the grounds of the hotel or look around the many colourful bazaars.
Day 5.
After an early breakfast we set off by jeep for the 6 hours drive to Pemayangtse (2250metres). Our accommodation is at the delightful Hotel, situated on a west-facing hillside and we superb views of the surrounding hill country. Whilst at Pemayangtse, we will take the opportunity to visit Sikkim’s second oldest monastery which is also the most prestigious centre of religious learning in Western Sikkim.
Day 6.
After breakfast we make the picturesque 6 hour drive, through the tea plantations to Uttare. The road follows the River Ranjit, passing through a beautiful steep sided valley en route. Following the checking of our permits at the control post, our first walking of the trip is on a good trail, through abundant rhododendron forest, to a camp site clearing near the forest guards but at Chitra (2680metres) about 4-5 hour trekking. Overnight in tent.
Day 7.
A 2 hour climb leads through the forest to our camp site, below the settlement known as Chiwabhanjang (3130metres). As this is a relatively short day, we intend to have an early lunch before walking south along the Singalila Ridge to the prominent view point of “Singalila Peak” (3685metres). After the confines of the forest, this is our first ridge-top trekking, opening up tantalizing views of the giant Himalayan Peaks to the north. The ascent to this high point, before returning to our camp at Chiwabhanjang, also provides us with useful acclimatization. Overnight in tent.
Day 8.
Today is the first of two longer days, from our camp just below the low-point of the ridge we begin a steep climb through the rhododendron forest for one and a half hours to a set of prayer flags at a high point of 3500 metres. Although steep, the trail is excellent and has obviously been used for centuries by herders moving their yaks from one grazing ground to another across the ridge. Descending once again to 3300 metres, the path switches between Nepal and Sikkim with spectacular views down either side of the ridge. It is obvious why the trail clings to the ridge top, as there is simply no way down on either side, so dense is the rhododendron forest. In spring, this part of the walk is spectacularly colourful. A level and slightly wider section of the ridge, offers a perfect resting point for lunch, before another small climb and more airy ridge-top trekking leads to our camp just past a yak herders camp, known as Dhor (3720metres). Water is often scarce at this and the next camp site, which means that the kitchen staff have to descend a long way to find water. We camp on the Nepal side of the ridge and have splendid views across a succession of ridges, as well as a beautiful sunset panorama of the high peaks of Nepal, including Makalu and Everest. Total walking time-7-8 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 9.
Just before the camp there is a particularly fine view point for Kanchenjunga and it is worth getting up early to watch the sun rise on the world’s 3rd highest mountain. The early morning light along the ridge with many short ascents and descents and very little flat walking. The highpoint of the days trekking is at a collection of prayer flags at 3920 metres, which is reaches, sometime mid-morning. After lunch, the trail remains high, between 3600 and 3900 metres, to our camp on the open grazing slopes known as Paharay Megu. A small, deserted yak herder’s hut is the only sign of civilization-these pastures are only used for grazing during the period of the monsoon. Total walking time-5-6 hours. Altitude at camp-3930 metres. Overnight in tents.
Day 10.
Today is a shorter day, so there is no need to set off before the sun has hit the camp. Our destination for the following day (not today) is the Daphebir Pass at 4500 metres. If we cross this pass in the late afternoon, the weather many start to get cloudy and there is a chance that some of the best views of the trip could be missed. Therefore, in order to cross this pass when the light is at its best and the weather clear, we propose to camp by the holy lakes on the west side of the pass, crossing early the following morning. Leaving our camp at Paharay Megu, we drop slightly on the west side of the ridge. The terrain becomes more open and the scale of the mountain scenery much larger as we follow a wide valley, turning east, in the direction of a large waterfall and a break in the ridge, which leads to the Daphebir Pass. We have lunch in the camp at Pararay Jomle, near one of the three holy lakes, many of which are important pilgrim sites in the summer monsoon months. We can expect spectacular evening views of the Himalaya, including sunset on Makalu, Walking time-3-4 hours. Altitude at camp-4200 metres.
Day 11.
Today is one of the most beautiful walks of the trek, as we cross two high mountain passes, each offering spectacular views of the north, of the high mountains of Sikkim, including Kanchenjunga (8585metres), Kabru (7317metres) and Pandim (6691metres). We leave our camp early, to enable us to get to the pass in time for the early morning views. Our route follows a relatively easy trail which skirts the edge of two further lakes, the second of which, being an important pilgrim destination, is surrounded by prayer flags and by hundreds of large flat stones that have been turned on their end as a mark of respect for the gods-quite an inspiring place. We can see the pass in the distance, marked by 4 cairns and we soon reach the start of the steep zigzag path that climbs to the col. It is quite atmosphere, walking along side the yaks men with the sound of jingling yak bells and whistles from the yak men, urging on their charges. After short celebrations (the next pass is slightly higher) we drop down and then contour across the hill side for a further 30 minutes to reach the main pass (4500metres) which is marked by hundreds of prayer flags. The views to the north are once again stunning and we relax for a while to take in the magnificent scenery. The walk down to the valley floor is most enjoyable, following a good trail across the open slopes at first and then down through the pine and juniper forest to Gamothang where we have lunch by the river- a beautiful spot. After lunch, we have a two-hour climb to our camp site by the river at Yanseb.
Day 12.
After 6 days trekking, it is time for a rest day. Yanseb is an ideal camp site to relax and there are lots of possibilities for walks around the camp should you wish to explore the area further.
Day13.
Leaving the beautiful camp site is a wrench, but there is the promise of more of the same still to come. We can now look across Dzongri, a small settlement on the main trekking route to Kanchenjunga and our destination in three days time. We continue contouring across the hill side, climbing at times, until we cross a small river beyond which a final climb leads to yet another small pass (4310m), adorned by prayer flags and with wonderful views looking back across our route of the last two days. A short distance below the pass, the trail climbs steeply once again the hill side for an hour and then turns a corner to reveal a spectacular view across a wide ridge, to Kabru and Pandim. We now feel that we are getting really close to the big mountain as the landscape opens up in front of us. We camp in a clearing know as Panding (4275metres). Walking time about 6-7 hours. Overnight in tents.
Day 14.
Our destination is the ridge, across the next valley, a deceptively short distance away. However, we have to take quite a detour to the north and cross two further passes to reach this ridge, which makes for quite a long day. We continue to head towards the northeast, descending at first to a river and then climbing a short distance to the first of two passes. Our last climb is steep but we are rewarded with a magnificent view from the pass-there is a small summit to the right of the pass, which is well worth a visit. Our camp is far below, at a place called Ghate, in a dramatic setting beneath the south west face of the Kabru Massif. Sunset is particularly impressive. Walking time about 6-7 hours. Altitude at camp-3950 metres.
Day 15.
Just as sunset was impressive the night before, so is sunrise. It is certainly worth getting up early to witness this (even if you have to go back to bed). Today is a relatively easy day, so there is no need to make too early a start. We can have a leisurely breakfast before we break camp. Descending along side the river to a very photogenic plank bridge, we start the climb to Dzongri. After 2 hours we reach a set of prayer flags on a ridge, which we follow for an hour to the trekker’s huts at Dzongri (3990metres), where we camp in a natural bowl on the ridge. The peaks of Pandim, Narsingh and Joponu now appear to be distinctly closer. A short walk above Dzongri is a superb view point for sunset and sunrise on Kanchenjunga, well worth the effort for an early evening stroll. For the best approach to the view point, follow the trail up the ridge from the lowest hut-the viewpoint is easily visible due to the large number of prayer flags. As well as Kanchenjunga, there are superb views of the neighbouring peaks, including Rathong (6683metres), Kokthang (6150metres), Karbu Dome (6640metres) and Forked Peak (6116metres). Walking time about 4 hours.
Day 16.
From Dzongri, we follow the original Kanchenjunga trek to the Goecha La with camps on the way at Thansing and Samity Lake. We are likely to encounter more trekkers from this point on. Today walk starts with a short climb to a ridge, which affords open views across Sikkim. We follow this scenic ridge for about 5 km, before descending a steep spur to our lunch spot on the banks of the glacier Prek Chu. A short stretch of boulder hopping, then we cross the steam to begin the climb to Thangshing, a large open camp site on a grassy pasture. The southern Ridge of Kanchenjunga and the moraines of the Oglathang Glacier are visible directly ahead and there are close-up views of Pandim. Walking time, about 4-5 hours. Altitude at camp,-3950 metres.
Day 17.
A pleasant couple of hours walk beneath the west side of Pandim, on a path that leads through dwarf azaleas and rhododendron, takes us to the first of the terminal moraines of the Oglathang Glacier. We climb to the crest of a moraine ridge and find ourselves on the shores of the lovely and sacred Samity Lake. Ringed by prayer flags and reflecting a number of snow-capped peaks, including Pandim, Samity Lake makes a beautiful spot for our overnight camp. The track to the Goecha-La climbs steeply above the lake and beyond we can see the summits of the Kanchenjunga group. In the afternoon, we can climb up above the lake to take photographs of this very picturesque area. Walking time about 3 hours. Altitude at camp-4300 metres.
Day 18.
Today we will make the hard, three to four hour climb up to the 4800 metre-high Goecha La. A pre-dawn start is a must, to ensure that we reach the pass when the visibility is excellent. Afternoon cloud build-up can sometimes obscure the view. The trail skirts the lake, before ascending a series of moraine ridge on the eastern edge of the Oglathang Glacier. As we climb, we have increasingly spectacular views of the mountains and valleys to the south and east, but these are overshadowed by the panorama that unfolds ahead of us when we reach the prayer flagged Goecha La. Rising more than 4000 metres above the Talung Glacier, at a distance of only 5 km from our viewpoint, is the stunning eastern wall of Kanchenjunga, which includes the five principal summits of the massif and also the very impressive Kabru and Rathong peaks. We return to Samity Lake by early afternoon and have lunch before continuing downhill for two hours to Thangsing, where we camp for the night. Overnight in tents.
Day 19.
Descending the valley from Thangsing, we take a direct route, missing out Dzongri, following a lower trail through dense rhododendron forest. After a long descent (almost 1500 metres), we camp in the forest at the small hamlet of Bakhim, half an hour below the small village of Tsokha (3060metres). It is a pleasant change to be back in a warm climate. From our camp, we look out on ridge after ridge of temperate forest and to the river far below. There are one or two small lodges at our camp site, a good opportunity for you to try the local millet “beer” (hereabouts called thumba) which is served in drinking vessels made out of bamboo. Walking time about 6-7 hours.
Day 20.
More downhill from our camp, all the way to the river. Then the trail runs up the narrow Rathong Valley, through thick, semi-tropical forest, contouring the east bank of the river with several undulations and tributary rivers to cross. The consolation is that now we are back in the warmer lower valley, there is plenty of opportunity for bathing under one of a number of suitable wayside waterfalls. After 4 hours, we reach Yoksom, where we check in to the best hotel in town-the Hotel . In the evening we will have a party to say good by to our yak men, porters and trekking crew.
Day21
After breakfast, we drive to Kalimpong, which was once an important market town, strategically located at a crossroads between Sikkim, Bhutan, Tibet and the plains of Bengal. One of the principal commercial enterprises of the town today, is the growing of flowers in extensive nurseries. We stay in the Himalayan Hotel; run by Tim McDonald, whose grandfather David accompanied Francis Younghusband (as interpreter) on the invasion of Tibet in 1904. The McDonald’s family home is something of a museum to the early exploration of this part of the Himalaya, its 11 rooms decorated with memorabilia donated notable Himalayan explores who have stayed at the hotel over the years. The hotel gardens include a great variety of Himalayan plants and shrubs and sitting on the splendid balcony, sipping Darjeeling tea and looking out towards Kanchenjunga, makes a perfect finale to a brilliant trip.
Day 22.
After breakfast, we drive to the airport at Bagdogra on a road, which initially follows the course of the famous and remarkable Darjeeling Mountain Railway. Taking the afternoon flight to Delhi, we transfer to the Hotel where we have use of day rooms to freshen up if you are taking a night flight. After dinner we transfer to the airport to check-in for your onward journey.
Day 23.
Depart Delhi for your onward journey.